Kind of feel like we stole a day's bouldering today. The forecast looked dodgy all week, but this morning the weather seemed perfect and Saint Tim came and picked me up followed by James and we headed to Glendalough, for what I like to think was day two of the boulder meet, that didn't really happen last weekend due to hangovers and rain!
James had the gem of an idea on the way in to start off at the Fin and work our way back down the path. We warmed up on the Arete of the Fin (6a) and the Arete Right of the Fin (6b+) which Tim made look easy, but it spat me and James off and our interest in it waned and we moved on to a sit start just around the corner from AROTF (marked in the guide as 'Problem 6'). Tim, on form as ever, sent it, it's a 6b and I loved the mechanics of the start of it, but the initial throw for the catch is an accurate move that I just couldn't get and it's sharp, so again we moved on.
Next on the list was 'Xmen on Holiday' (6a+). Gas problem, with a lying down start. It's extremely low ball and after watching Tim practice a stand start finish, the sequence became clear to me and I sent it in unusually good style! Tim followed and sent it, James got so close but just popped off the top.
Diarmuid joined us after we'd finished doing everything except the Fin... in the Fin area... and the four of us moved on down to Chillax (6c). We all struggled trying to remember the sequence, but finally Diarmuid sent Chillax Left, Tim sent Chillax and then the Left version, and I got oh so close to a repeat send of Chillax Left but popped off the jug at the end, and was happy to leave it at that!!
We moved on to White Stick (6c) and if Tim has The Nu Rails dialed and Diarmuid has Superstars of BMX dialed, then I have White Stick dialed. Using the awesome Tim beta the problem was, today, an easy send for me - Tim topped it out too and Diarmuid and James seemed happy to move on away from it. It's a desperate problem to get down from, and though I quite enjoyed topping it out today, getting off that boulder might put me off doing it again!
It started raining then and we sheltered under 'Dutch Gold' (7b) - luckily it was only a quick shower and the sun came out once again, drying everything in minutes.
So it was off up to Black Art (6c) and for the first time ever I caught the opening throw, I was so pleased, I actually didn't know what the next move was and dropped off it - James, Diarmuid and Tim made awesome progress on it before Diarmuid topped it out. The guys made the heel hook at the start look bomber, but I just don't understand it yet, so it's useless to me and I lost my psyche for it.
We moved on down to the Jiggery Pokery boulder. I had thought we were trying Jiggery earlier, but I've just looked at my guide and it turns out we were on Pokery (6c). Diarmuid and Tim both sent it after a few attempts and just as they did, the start of it, which I was struggling with, came together for me and the patient men they are, the guys were cool with me trying it a few more times before we moved on. My most successful attempt saw the top jug held before I slipped off and landed with a thud on the boulder pads. 'Damn' I thought - I was close!
It was then that I looked down at my left hand and realised that my ring finger no longer had a tip on it. It was pouring blood and despite Tim's best efforts to tape it up, the blood wouldn't stop and as much as I hate to admit it - it kind of freaked me out a bit.
I know, I'm a big girl's blouse!
We headed to F@*K All Left and I just had a feeling that this was going to be Tim's day on it. The first couple of attempts he came off as had happened on previous days and the sharp SHARP holds were hurting - but after a break of a couple of minutes he got back on and caught the opening throw really solidly and there was a sense that this was the attempt that he'd top out on and he did!
Brilliant effort!
We sort of wandered over to Big Jim then and I had become very cold at that stage and wrapped up in my down jacket and just shivered, for some reason turning down Tim's offer of an extra jacket (WHY I don't know??!!) Tim and Diarmuid sort of descended into a frenzied race around the boulder in what seemed to be a record breaking attempt to finish ALL the Big Jim problems in under 3 minutes!! I think they may have done it too!
Great mileage in today, really had a blast and have to say James' idea of starting at the Fin was inspired and made for a very structured and varied day's bouldering on really great problems!
Definitely getting stronger!
Can I ask what the story with this Dutch Gold 7B situation is? I thought it was 8A?
ReplyDelete7b... 8a... no matter today! It served only as an awesome shelter!
ReplyDeleteIt's listed as 7b in the guide...
Harry did it second go at the meet last year.
ReplyDeleteDid he say he thought it was 7B? Worth a go then no?
ReplyDeleteDutchgold looks like a bit of a one move wonder - or at least a few people have said that's what it is...
ReplyDeleteSeems like two tiny crimps and then a throw for a big jug...
Think that was a problem we saw chalkmarks on while we there on Sunday that would have suggested someone might be working a sit start?
I don't know that the grade is. All I meant by 7b was not 8a. It's just one campus move from the tiny crimps and an awkward topout. I think those low holds get chalked every so often and stay chalked as its so steep and sheltered.
ReplyDelete