Right... 8 weeks to go before Font 2011 part 2
No messing this time, training begins today with some serious rest.
My focus over the next few weeks is going to be development of power. My ability to jump, despite 12 years trampolining, is non existant and my dynamic moves (throws & dead points) need a lot of attention.
Need to work on my abilty to campus, cause sometimes you just have to!!!
With the exception of campus training, I have no idea where to start with developing all that power though... I know what I want the end result to be... but how do I get there, and how do I get there in 8 weeks?!
Any thoughts or tips?
Are you in a gym ? I found this sweet machine in my gym which takes weight off your body when you are doing pull ups. I started using it for one armers training ... it has made a great difference to my power and lock off strength !! I started in November I could do 3 sets of 3 one armers each arm with 30 kilo counter eight and 1 max rep at 20 kilo, now I can do 3 sets of 3 on 20 and a max rep of 15. This kind of shoulder and back strength is one big advantage blokes have over girls ... but if girls train it they can have the power too :) Start doing one armer training now 4 days a week and you will be stronger than ever come Font
ReplyDeleteNot in a gym... but sounds like a great machine, do you know the name of it?!!
ReplyDeleteYeah, I'm dead jealous of the 'whoosh' noise that's made as guys power past moves I could only dream of making... A few days in Font with Kev Power has made me think it's time to try and train for those moves.
I'll never have the power of a male boulderer, but I should be able to jump and throw during problems with confidence and I can't... YET!!!!
That's all about to change! :)
It's called an ''assisted pull up machine'' I call it ''the one armer filthy beast contraption'', hands down the quickest way to get one arm pull up strength !! Here is an example of one, except you don't have to kneel down on the one I use you can stand up
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pwwlc8xUJDE
If you can't find one of these it's possible to rig up a counter weight pulley system beside your finger board / pull up bar but it is a pain in the arse and not as effective as you are still doing a 2 armed pull up but with one arm doing more work. This machine isolates one arm and side of your body ... it's nothing short of amazing and all climbers should be using one in my opinion. Be careful though you will end up with Kyle Minougue's hips and Arnold Schwarzenegger's back :)
another thing you can try is one arm traversing, it is in the training book in the coop.
ReplyDeleteit is good for adding dynamism into your climbing or at least that is what the book said
Set up 4 or 5 really hard 1 move deapoint problems and spend a maximum of 10 attempts on each of them at every session.
ReplyDeleteEven better : double motion deadpoints where you have to catch and push on a horrible (but not sharp!) intermediate hold. This will develop your precision and reaction, two vital elements of bouldering power.
No disrespect to the one-arm training comments, but I don't think you're at that stage to be worrying about that sort of skill. I see a lot of people who can pull off multiple one-armers at the Works (and do 1-5-8) but they can't transfer it to actual climbing.
ReplyDeletefor you, and for most females, to develop that power first, I'd be thinking along the lines of what Pierre described. One of the nice things about watching a female is that they usually have such amazing technique and precision - but that's also the downfall as it means you climb quite slowly and try to lock down every move you make. Try doing problems but going hard at them - swing between the moves, and pull hard. Try even grabbing two holds, work your feet up high and KICK for a hold that is full leg extension above you. It's about learning the skill of pulling with your arms and pushing with your legs at the correct times as much as it is about getting stronger. I've seen you doing a one-legged squat so you've definitely got the power in your legs!
As for campusing, try doing pull-ups on the campus board with one hand on different level rungs. Just try and pull up as high as possible. Try doing it at 1-3 (obviously 1-2) if two-rung distance is too far. And be careful on that Co-Op campus board, the holds are a bit evil on it!
I'm sure there's lots of rubbish in the waffle above, but bound to be one snippet of useful ideas :) Go forth and CRUSH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
And good timing from Dave MacLeod's blog :)
ReplyDeleteAt least I know we all were not talking complete rubbish!
Dave MacLeod OnlineClimbingCoach - For a skinny female climber
Thanks fir the tips, loved training today, brand new focus, brand new psyche!!! :)
ReplyDelete