Managing my wrist/finger injury

Well I've identified the source of the pain from the wrist strain I suffered at the IBL and then agitated again whilst training in the Co op on Monday. I pulled too hard on a three finger crimp (caught open handed of course!!) and a shooting pain went from my ring finger all the way to my elbow and then my wrist was left in a sort of overall pain!

OWWW!

So I rested for 2 days, icing the arm and wrist twice daily and generally avoiding using my left hand...

Got bored pretty quick (as usual) and started looking at ways of taping my finger and wrist so as I could climb.

I found that if I pulled on my ring finger and allowed my little finger to drop away (as pictured above!), the pain was unbearable. I thought I'd have to take a month off at least... BUT! then I realised that I could pull as hard as I like on my ring finger as long as my little finger doesn't drop away -

Therefore - I thought if I buddy strap them (as pictured below!!) and strap my wrist I should be able to climb away.

Obviously - long term, those two particular fingers strapped together is no good for three or two finger pockets, but the most frustrating thing about climbing is that when one gets an injury, for every training day lost, finger strength is being lost too and we all know how difficult that is to build in the first place.

So I went to the Co op tonight with my plan of action that occurred to me only this afternoon at work. I strapped my two fingers together and to my delight, I could crank as hard as I liked! (Didn't try any problems, just laps and laps of the wall on jugs and generous crimps)

I know my fingers need to rest, but I really think I've found a way that I can train and manage my injury at the same time.

And I'll leave you with this...

With my finger/wrist strain in mind and for anyone who's in the midst of a finger strain feast your eyes on this 9a+ sport route... made for extremely uncomfortable watching today... but it's feckin' awesome!!!