Sunday, November 14, 2010

GLENMACNASS







I haven't been to Glenmacnass since last February, and it was as cold then as it was cold today!

So on my second visit, the conditions were absolutely mint, had so much fun all day with a great bunch!! but it occurred to me that I wished I had more knowledge of the place so
I had focus on what I wanted to work... The only thing I knew I wanted to get back to was the Solidarity Arete... either side.

I had tried it back in February and found it really hard... I couldn't wait to get back on it and see what I could do - turns out - it's still nails and though I made another move or two and felt a bit more comfortable, I wanted to be better on it.

The walk in and out means that it's difficult to get 'Glenmacnass motivation!'... it's a good 50 minute walk through squelschy bog and an ankle turning uneven surface of grassy holes, streams and mossy rocks... Yikes!

The view is absolutely stunning though and the clear blue skies as well as the great company today meant that the walk, though tiring, was really enjoyable and when you reach the boulders, the quality of climbing is well worth it!

Got some good work done on a traverse that presented me with the most epic top out I've ever been on... It involved a one leg squat of sorts and though I was absolutely comfortable in the bottom of the squat, it must have taken me a good 30-40 seconds, if not a full minute before I got the umph to stand up on the leg!!

John Howard did some great work on a 7c beside that traverse and finally topped out a few go's later... awesome stuff!

The guys were all doing well on the problem (not sure what it's called but it's pictured below, so if anyone knows... do tell!)

Moved on and spent the rest of the time before we went to Solidarity, on some balancey aretes and slabs a little further up from the initial boulder we arrived at.

I'm so tired now - had a great day, and would definitely recommend a visit to Glenmacnass, just make sure the forecast is 100%, cause that walk in is a commitment that doesn't deserve a rainy destination...

^John topping out on the 7c mentioned above!




Angela topping out on the first traverse we did




^ Eamon on Solidarity

^Matt trying to keep warm!

John on Solidarity

10 comments:

  1. You guys must walk slow. 50mins should get you up to the very end of the valley. 25mins to Solidarity I would of thought. The 7c is probably 7a - don't believe enerything you read in guidebooks - especially mine. The problem Angela is on is Full Irish. That boulder is The Rasher.

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  2. Yeah, it's about 20 - 25 mins to Solidarity but then it's another 20 mins or so to the rest of the boulders, so maybe 50 mins was a bit dramatic... maybe it was only 40-45!!

    But one thing's for sure... it's epic!

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  3. Yep, dead right dave, got to solidarity in about 25/30 (but had to wait for a few stragglers :P), yep was thinking 6c+/7a for that one, mint day, everytime I go I just seem to remember how much more there is to do up there

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  4. Do you think anyone got any good shots? Its a nice problem though that 7a. I think everyone has that feeling when they go to Glenmac. I'm sure I will see youse at the Reel Rock.

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  5. I've a bunch of shots of us on it today, but I'll have to have a look through them ALL and see if there's any particularly good ones...

    Not sure any of them are very good...

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  6. Yeah, lovely problem, i think there might be a couple of decent shots but maybe too crowded with spotters for the guide dave, also, think i remember kev or chris having some decent shots of away from the numbers? might save you headin to lough bray again

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  7. John. Met Chris and Kev in Glendo on Saturday and they mentioned those shot of Away, looked at them on Facebook, fine photo apart from the fact that Chris is wearing a granite colored top and trousers.

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  8. Now, isn't this much more interesting material?

    I like the resin hold of the week too. Was this avant-gardiste feature specialy designed for me?

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  9. Glad you're finding my blog interesting!!

    The features are designed for the enjoyment of everyone! :D

    Keep an eye out for this week's best hold, it's a tight race between two resin crimps!!!

    ;)

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  10. so is the resin hold of the week the irish version of ROXXX?
    "don't like your roxxx wet and slippy we have the perfect show. you will not want to let these go"

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