Much much less training, and a definite plan.
A six month break (or more) has been followed by about 6 weeks of proper, focused training, with fewer days - in fact, only 2 days during the week, about an hour and a half each and then a finger board session on the weekend - lasting only about an hour.
Last Sunday I sat under Dark Angle (in the guide as 7a, but lets face it... it's a 6b/6b+ in reality) in The Scalp and I tried to figure out the starting position but I just couldn't. I've had about 7 or 8 sessions on it and I've NEVER stuck the opening move with any conviction.
Eoin tried it and flashed it, using a foothold way down low.
Then I had another attempt and seemed to cruise it.
Then again tonight, at the Co op, there was a problem I could never do - despite millions of attempts and tonight I got it first go -
The crimpy 45 problem in the Co op also went with relative ease a couple of weeks ago - before my 6 month break I had spent about 8 months or so trying it.
I have no idea where the strength came from for any of my recent successes - as in - when I went for the moves I knew I couldn't do - my body was just simply able to do them - I hope there's more strength waiting there if I stick to this plan!!...