Tuesday, February 19, 2013


Much much less training, and a definite plan.

A six month break (or more) has been followed by about 6 weeks of proper, focused training, with fewer days - in fact, only 2 days during the week, about an hour and a half each and then a finger board session on the weekend - lasting only about an hour.

Last Sunday I sat under Dark Angle (in the guide as 7a, but lets face it... it's a 6b/6b+ in reality) in The Scalp and I tried to figure out the starting position but I just couldn't. I've had about 7 or 8 sessions on it and I've NEVER stuck the opening move with any conviction.

Eoin tried it and flashed it, using a foothold way down low.

Then I  had another attempt and seemed to cruise it.

Then again tonight, at the Co op, there was a problem I could never do - despite millions of attempts and tonight I got it first go -

The crimpy 45 problem in the Co op also went with relative ease a couple of weeks ago - before my 6 month break I had spent about 8 months or so trying it.

I have no idea where the strength came from for any of my recent successes - as in - when I went for the moves I knew I couldn't do - my body was just simply able to do them - I hope there's more strength waiting there if I stick to this plan!!...


  1. Basically means that if you have been climbing intensily a clean break from climbing allows the mind to clear up it's movement patterns and performance can improve see http://books.google.ie/books?id=zduhTLP2rG0C&pg=PA28&lpg=PA28&dq=%22The+reminiscence+effect%22&source=bl&ots=Q_akbkShTa&sig=CibbqtWBlaeYBP56FrK-52-XiZA&hl=en&sa=X&ei=ZNUkUZLoNYfJhAeYlYGoBg&ved=0CFEQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q=%22The%20reminiscence%20effect%22&f=false

  2. Not to mention that less is definitely more when it comes to power/strength training (i.e. bouldering). Learned the hard way myself :) Only the route climbers need to be doing high mileage - if you're trying to develop strength/power, training day in, day out never lets the muscles recover/consolidate/improve (although you'll see slow improvement). Although, one crazy week of non-stop climbing/training is good every once in a while too to shock the body (so the latest sports studies are recommending).
    What's the latest on the Co-Op?