Thursday, April 7, 2011

Untick!

Never wanting to cheapen a line I have to 'untick' Abdolobotomy as a sit start...

It would seem, through much research that the crimp throw to the lip is in fact the crux move of the entire problem and the fact that I can reach past it is neither here nor there!!

This means I have to have another session on this line... I can't see anything to complain about!!

Helicopter, La Coquille and Abdolobotomy have a date with me around October...

Sounds like fun!! :)

3 comments:

  1. Hehe, you lanks can't be skippin' the sit-starts ... ''Tall people reach things, small people climb things'' :)

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  2. Hi Trish, I think this is another stupid eliminate rule : this problem should clearly be downgraded. The person who first climbed the line obvioulsy thought that the problem was harder without the crimp (though it is not clear if it made it better). But where do you stop then. Maybe you could eliminate the lip and make it 8a? By the way Ciaran, Ssmall people have less lever to fight on their finger tips, which is why most of the world top climbers are small, not tall.

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  3. It's funny I can't see anything wrong with the way I climbed it, but if I'm looking for a 7a grade climb, then the way I did it certainly wouldn't fulfil that grade...

    I didn't skip the sit start as such - I just reached past the opening crimp while sitting...

    Was speaking to Angela last night and she made a good point: she says as a shorter climber she doesn't get awarded a higher grade for the '7a moves' she has to pull off to send some of the 6b's she's done...

    And so the debate of the short and the tall continues...

    :) I love climbing!!

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