Saturday, February 19, 2011

Wage war!


Well, the conditions for today couldn't have read any better on paper, but the reality was that when we got to the boulders of Glendalough, despite a clear blue sky and beautiful sunshine, each and every one of them were wet.

Diarmuid had put the word out that conditions were damp, but we decided to check it out anyway and it turns out we should have paid more heed to his warning!

It was a beautiful day though and logic told us that if we went to boulders that were in the sun, they would surely be dry... So we went for a walk up to the Holiday Boulders which was a fantastic hike up the valley, I'd never been up there before and view is amazing, however it's a hard slog and when we finally got to the boulders they were wet, despite the sunshine... UGH!



I hate hiking for that long when there's no climbing at the end of it!!!

Back down the Valley we went and Barry suggested we check out Big Jim and Big Jane - crossing the river was gas craic - it was really wild and all the rocks I'd usually use on calmer days were submerged, so we all just had to jump for the edge... made it just about!

Our efforts were rewarded, the conditions were far away from mint, but at least the rock was drying a bit, so we started on some problems on Big Jim and I got introduced to 'Barry's Problem' (6c) for the first time - big launch from the opening hold to a flatty, and then work your hand up the crack a bit and throw for the jug at the top, Barry got it in a couple of go's, but the throw was just too far for me and Chris!


The three of us made it up 'Duffy's Slap' (6b+). The guy's flashed it, while it took me about 5 attempts. We were all well warmed up at that stage and we went over to 'Andy's Arete' (7a+)


Game on!

Trying the opening sequence, I felt strong and it seemed like it might just come together... But placing my foot on the arete was too much of a puzzle... It's a blind foot placement and I was all over the shop today on it! Taking a positive away from today's session, I was surprised at how strong I felt on it and once I work out exactly where my foot is going I'm going to send it.

It's really encouraging that it's not a strength thing, cause I've been working really hard on getting stronger in my fingers and my arms - I could hold on... I just couldn't place my foot! The last couple of attempts I was getting closer, but there were trust issues between my brain and my boot and I just kept getting spat off even trying it from stand start... Even trying it with Barry physically placing my foot in position!!!

The best advice I've heard in a long time is to wage war on the problems I'm trying... I can't give up, the rock can't win... and it won't!

The guys both left me for dust on Andy's Arete... for both of them, it went like: shoes on, send, shoes off.

End of story... don't blink!

Both Chris and Barry did it completely differently, but both looked rock solid on it. I can't wait to have it wired like that!! It was really cool to watch them send it with such ease.

So after our hiking and playing on a couple of problems on Big Jim and quick session on Andy's Arete I was pretty damn tired, I think we all were... walking is draining!!

We finished up on the egg boulder and Barry tried the 'Egg Traverse' and made the transition from the traverse on to 'The Egg' look easy, but just misplaced his foot and came off. Brilliant effort though!






I tried 'Tim's Mantle' (6c) but just ran of energy and we all called it a day.

Super psyched to get back to training at the board again, I can really see the hours at the co op paying off these past two weekends of outdoor bouldering, even though we only got on a few things today, I can definitely say I'm getting stronger and more confident on the rock.

Awesome!

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