Bouldering Essentials

Bouldering essentials, by Dave Flanagan -

I'm really looking forward to getting my copy - it's comprehensive, well laid out, the photos are gorgeous, there's a foreword by Johnny Dawes...

And look!!...

You can buy it on Amazon:

Here!

I can't wait for it to be bouldering season!!!!!!

The Groove, The Co op, Done.

I climbed The Groove in Glendalough today.

The reason I put the problem away as fast as I did was because I took 2 sessions to figure out and get the measure of the moves and then recreated the crux in the Co op and while it rained and rained, I trained and trained, throwing over and over again at the crux, before heading back to Glendalough today and sending the problem on my third attempt.

The Co op closes in a week or so -  the source of good training gone...

Chuffed with my send, sad about the board.

Plan.

Much much less training, and a definite plan.

A six month break (or more) has been followed by about 6 weeks of proper, focused training, with fewer days - in fact, only 2 days during the week, about an hour and a half each and then a finger board session on the weekend - lasting only about an hour.

Last Sunday I sat under Dark Angle (in the guide as 7a, but lets face it... it's a 6b/6b+ in reality) in The Scalp and I tried to figure out the starting position but I just couldn't. I've had about 7 or 8 sessions on it and I've NEVER stuck the opening move with any conviction.

Eoin tried it and flashed it, using a foothold way down low.

Then I  had another attempt and seemed to cruise it.

Then again tonight, at the Co op, there was a problem I could never do - despite millions of attempts and tonight I got it first go -

The crimpy 45 problem in the Co op also went with relative ease a couple of weeks ago - before my 6 month break I had spent about 8 months or so trying it.

I have no idea where the strength came from for any of my recent successes - as in - when I went for the moves I knew I couldn't do - my body was just simply able to do them - I hope there's more strength waiting there if I stick to this plan!!...

Shut Down.

In 5 years time when all the new climbers (who don't realise now) realise what training is, they'll say - 'I wish the Co op hadn't shut down', cause short of a miracle, that's what's going to happen.

'That was the best training board', they'll say.

I sure will miss the place.

I sure am sad.

In Case Anyone Hasn't Seen this Yet

James' and Rhys' epic climbing tale!

A pause button maybe?

I imagined what falling from a boulder would be like with my new ankle last evening...

It didn't bear thinking about - the thoughts of turning it again make me wince - it's so unstable and floppy - there's nothing stopping it anymore and the pain would probably lift me back up into the air again.

After years of training how to fall, I'm pretty good at knowing which way is up and down and how to land on my feet and stop - unfortunately, now there's nothing stopping my ankle rolling.

There was a part of me that missed bouldering last evening and wondered how long it would be before I get back - I'm starting to think it might be more of a psychological game than a physical one at this point.

Something tells me my ankle will be ready before my mind is.

Pain is the great leveler.

We must do what we can do.

As much as I was bouldering last year, I'm not bouldering now. I'm not bouldering as enthusiastically as when I was bouldering my most elusive and captivating projects.

Such is the extent of my not bouldering, that even if I wanted to boulder, I couldn't.

But I don't want to boulder at the moment, so my ankle is perfectly timed. If I did want to, I'd be in the same position.

Not bouldering.

As soon as I got word from the physio that I was allowed back on my bike, I went for a spin up Stocking Lane with Eoin. Patience was needed as I rested 3/4 times in a feeble attempt at the hill.

The following Wednesday I went out again on my own - in the rain. Took a couple of rests but felt altogether better.

Subsequent to that, relentless repetition of the various squats I've been ordered to do left me asserting my most convincing ascent of the lane to date on the following attempt. It was difficult, no doubt - but I didn't need a rest.

We took one to put on our rain jackets, but my legs felt well able for the climb.

Come what may, I'm out again tomorrow - I'm not bouldering any more at all... but there's still climbing to be done.

At the moment - I'm psyched to do what I can.