Rocklands - 1.5 weeks

From Daniel Woods' InstagramAccount.

Daniel Woods, Dave Mason and the who's who of the bouldering super strong have been posting photos of Rocklands SA over the past while. I've been so excited to watch their videos and see their posts because in a week and half I will travel to Capetown, drive 2.5 hours north and (I think) be one of the first from Ireland to Boulder in South Africa's Rocklands.

I am so excited that I've started packing already.

My posts will not contain 8A onsights or new hard FAs, but I look forward to posting about the trip - and I promise one thing for sure...

I'll be trying my very best on every last block I get to.

Bouldering Essentials - Dave Flanagan

I had my first look at this book, written by Dave Flanagan, today at Awesome Walls and its a really lovely thing. It's brilliantly laid out, the images illustrate it beautifully and the book as an object has a fresh and enduring look to it.

The images jump off the page and act as eye candy for the next trip away, as well as, in other instances, acting as step by step guides to different techniques, equipment or exercises that every boulderer should know about.

A load of thought has gone into this book and its an absolute joy to flip through and read or just to have a gander at the pictures! I can't wait until my copy arrives, and am thrilled to have had a small part in its coming together.

Did I mention its Irish too!

Go get it.

Bouldering Essentials

Bouldering essentials, by Dave Flanagan -

I'm really looking forward to getting my copy - it's comprehensive, well laid out, the photos are gorgeous, there's a foreword by Johnny Dawes...

And look!!...

You can buy it on Amazon:

Here!

I can't wait for it to be bouldering season!!!!!!

The Groove, The Co op, Done.

I climbed The Groove in Glendalough today.

The reason I put the problem away as fast as I did was because I took 2 sessions to figure out and get the measure of the moves and then recreated the crux in the Co op and while it rained and rained, I trained and trained, throwing over and over again at the crux, before heading back to Glendalough today and sending the problem on my third attempt.

The Co op closes in a week or so -  the source of good training gone...

Chuffed with my send, sad about the board.

Plan.

Much much less training, and a definite plan.

A six month break (or more) has been followed by about 6 weeks of proper, focused training, with fewer days - in fact, only 2 days during the week, about an hour and a half each and then a finger board session on the weekend - lasting only about an hour.

Last Sunday I sat under Dark Angle (in the guide as 7a, but lets face it... it's a 6b/6b+ in reality) in The Scalp and I tried to figure out the starting position but I just couldn't. I've had about 7 or 8 sessions on it and I've NEVER stuck the opening move with any conviction.

Eoin tried it and flashed it, using a foothold way down low.

Then I  had another attempt and seemed to cruise it.

Then again tonight, at the Co op, there was a problem I could never do - despite millions of attempts and tonight I got it first go -

The crimpy 45 problem in the Co op also went with relative ease a couple of weeks ago - before my 6 month break I had spent about 8 months or so trying it.

I have no idea where the strength came from for any of my recent successes - as in - when I went for the moves I knew I couldn't do - my body was just simply able to do them - I hope there's more strength waiting there if I stick to this plan!!...

Shut Down.

In 5 years time when all the new climbers (who don't realise now) realise what training is, they'll say - 'I wish the Co op hadn't shut down', cause short of a miracle, that's what's going to happen.

'That was the best training board', they'll say.

I sure will miss the place.

I sure am sad.

In Case Anyone Hasn't Seen this Yet

James' and Rhys' epic climbing tale!