Handstand offset

Bouldering involves a lot of pulling through the hands and arms, shoulders and back.

When I began, and even up until recently, I think the problems weren't that stressful on my joints, simply because they weren't that hard - even if it took me a while to get them sent!

Recently I've been trying to up my game, and try more difficult problems. The intensity of the moves can cause stress, specifically at the board.

Suddenly, the problems are stressful on my elbows, wrists and fingers.

The guys had spoken in the past about having a 'want' to succeed. I suppose it's easy to step off a problem and say 'ah well, next time'...

Yes, the problem will be sent eventually, but what about sending it this attempt, right now!

There has to be a want and a determination there. A fight to put right a slightly missed hand or foot placement, a determination to keep moving. I'm getting into the idea of 'waging war' on these problems. More often than not these days, I slip off, rather than step off a problem.

All this, added to the fact that I'm not 15 anymore, means that repetitive strain injuries are definitely on the cards.

I've begun finger board sessions too and my elbows aren't too fond of them!!

That is, unless I do handstands to offset the stress I'm putting on my elbows, wrists and shoulders.

A properly held handstand is the opposite of bouldering, as far as I can see.

Instead of pulling my weight, I'm pushing it.

My forearms are contracted when I'm climbing, causing them to get pumped.

Handstands stretch out the forearms and wrists, and when held with totally straight arms (as they should be) give me great relief in my elbow joints. A strong handstand will see the shoulders pushing the body away from the arms, so as they're completely extended.

In a really good handstand, one's toes should be as far away from one's hands as possible.

So if a handstand is held against the wall, (face in), the toes should be pushed as high up the wall as they can be. If held for a minute or so, this position is also a pretty major core workout.

So between sets of reps on the finger board and after every training session, I'm doing handstands in an attempt to offset the stresses and strains, primarily on my elbows.

So far it's working a charm, as any niggles I feel during a session seem to disappear and fizzle away after the few handstands I do...

I suppose it could be said that it's not only handstands that help, but just generally stretching...

But for my money, there's something in a handstand that seems to save my elbows in particular.

A Salvaged Day in The Scalp

The rain was no reason not to go climbing today - too many sessions in the Cave had obviously left us in some sort of denial that rock suffers from it's effects!

We tried Glendasan, but managed to deduce that because the windscreen was so wet we could hardly see out, that the rock would be wet too...

What to do, what to do...

We hit the Scalp - I hadn't been there in about a year or more and was psyched to get on LDF (6c) and Dark Angle (7a)

We headed up to Gully's Problem (6b+) first and John and Matt crushed it. It took myself and Tom a good few attempts to figure it out, but we got there in the end. The move up into the undercut is lovely and feels precarious at first (especially in the rain!) but as you move higher on it, the hold gets better and better and allows your right arm free to grab the hold at the top. Nice move.

The descent from the top of Gully's Problem in the rain stressed me out big time today. Rock shoes do not stick to wet rock or grass or pine cones and it took me quite some time to calm the freak out I was having and get down the grassy rocky slope that falls away quite dramatically... I felt like a wuss!

Not surprisingly I made it down in the end and Tom gave me half his sandwich to eat - a good combination of Chicken Tikka, Tomatoes and Red Onion.

Matt and John had headed off to try Crimpnarris (7a) but as it became wetter and wetter the lads gave up and came back up to join us.

We made our way over to LDF which is across the road from Gully's Problem. Alas it was wet and John suggested we all head up around the back of LDF to another set of low ball boulders that might be sheltered from the rain. John and Matt bailed right, while Tom and I bailed left... The left hand side ascent up the slope was a bad combination of nettles and ferns - completely over grown and again, left my nerves in shreds!

We had a couple of attempts on the lines up there, but in the end the rain won and we decided it was time to leave. We went down the other side which was nettle free!

None of us felt like we'd had a work out though and so we hit the Co op and completely destroyed ourselves trying the problems there.

Shattered now.

Cave Life

Kev working Man Eater (7b+)

Got in from Ayton's Cave last night at about 11.30pm after an ok session on Loco Total...

It beat me again, but conditions were awful - the holds never dried and though I got a move further on the line, dry features and holds would have been a nice bonus!

Getting to the Cave last night was great craic - we arrived too early and the tide was in so we couldn't walk around - Naomi and Paul didn't have pads so they just climbed up and over a fairly high bit of cliff, but Kev and I didn't like the look of it with so much weight on our backs so Kev rolled up the ends of his tracksuit bottoms and strolled through the water in his runners...

The sun was shining and it didn't look like he got THAT wet... I thought it looked like fun...

I followed him around the corner through the water and it turns out - it was fun, but I have had soggy squelchy runners ever since... not a good move!!

Naomi, me, Tim, Chris, Kev, Paul, Tom, Ron, John and Claire were all there and though it wasn't the most productive session ever - with wet holds everywhere - it was great craic!

Tim even abandoned his climbing shoes for his swimming trunks mid way through the session and braved the evening waves of Howth for a quick swim... Needless to say he was on his own!

...

I'm convinced Loco Total will go next session. (hope I don't have to eat my words!)

Getting around the corner now feels solid after the link up between Loco Total and Caroline's Traverse... I knew what I was doing last night.

If it hadn't been for a foot slip from a slippy foot hold on one of my efforts I believe I had more in the tank to continue on further - but the end move is going to be tough, so after I was finished last night and too tired to climb anymore I practiced Kev's knee bar rest in the corner of Caroline's Traverse just before the final few moves.

That's going to be crucial!

Great night in what has to be Dublin's Premiere Bouldering Facility!!

Naomi Working Caroline's Traverse (6b) nearly in the dark!!

Stamina fail at Ayton's Cave!

Barry working on Maneater, I think?! (7b)

Met Frank at Sutton Dart Station today and we set off for a lovely walk through Howth to get to Ayton's Cave. When we reached the Martello Tower we were stopped by a random man who asked: 'Are you going bouldering in Ayton's Cave?!'

Nice to meet a well informed member of the public!!

The forecast looked dodgy yesterday, but the weather ended up being lovely and sunny and super warm - which didn't seem to matter at all in the cave.

I thought I'd just have a quick warm up on Caroline's Traverse (6b) and while I moved fairly easily through the opening 3m or so and around the corner my arms were pumped to bits by the final sequence which is a further 2m, give or take...

Barry and Chris completed the traverse and moved on to Loco Total - They both Flashed it. (that problem looks AMAZING!)

Myself, Kev Frank and Paul worked away on Caroline's Traverse. A few attempts later Kev sent it and suggested to me that I practice the end of it. I started at the corner and seemed to move fairly hassle free (though I had a small amount of faffing with my feet) through the final moves.

Paul working Caroline's Traverse (6b)

Attempting it from the start however, was a totally different kettle of fish! By the time I got to the end moves the small amount of faffing I had done before, and repeated again was enough to spit me off as my hands were left unable to hold on any longer.

Barry suggested a pretty straight forward sequence to me, and I hopped on the problem from half way again and practiced it, again, completing the end with relative ease...

I thought - ok, I have it wired now!

Frank and Paul both made progress on the traverse between my attempts, but we all seemed to have the same issue...

Stamina!

The moves were mine, but I failed each time in the same spot quite simply because I couldn't hold on anymore.

The cave is definitely the Summer venue for bouldering around Dublin, and I intend to get out there as much as I can -

In order to make it work though, (and it hurts to admit it) I may have to practice climbing more than 3m at a time...

All in all we spent nearly 2 hours working on the traverse and got more and more tired as the time passed. I can't wait to get back there again and finish it!!

FAIRHEAD MEET 2011...

I have a friend called Eamon who doesn't like my flippant use of the word 'awesome'.

Lately, my attempts to reduce my use of the word in general conversation have lead me to appreciate it's true meaning. This weekend I was presented with a place and quality of climbing that left me in no doubt that Fairhead can be described as:

Awesome.

The weekends adventure started out for me as an opportunity to stay in the luxury accommodation of my newly purchased tent, which kept me sheltered, warm and worryingly felt far too much like home... I am actually concerned about how at home I felt waking up in it...

My tent and I did well and farmer Sean's fields were a great spot for the many climbers (I want to say a hundred or so?) who showed up.

Paul Brennen drove us down and himself, myself, Jane, Johnno and Brian did a fairly stand out job of fitting 5 sets of trad climbing gear, 3 tents, sleeping bags, stoves, food, helmets and a set of juggling balls not to mention other bits and bobs into the boot of Paul's Ford Focus.

The success of that game of 'weekend away car boot-tetris' meant we had more than enough room in the car to be comfortable on the long journey up from Dublin.

The journey up to Fairhead was nearly 4 hours and in that time, to pass the time, we chatted, sang songs... all the usual really, with the exception of the entertainment which came from a pineapple which was one of only a few things that made it into the car from the cleverly packed boot.

This pineapple was given a pair of shades, a climbing helmet, and a nose and moustache were fashioned from toilet roll to create Señor Pinapple... The fairhead Climbing Meet Mascot.

Photos to follow...

We arrived in Fairhead at about 1.30am on Friday night, pitched our tents and went to sleep.

Woke up the next day, absolutely psyched out of my mind to get bouldering, but had no idea (having travelled up with trad climbers) where the boulders were, or who was about to go bouldering with!

Went and had breakfast in a local cafe behind a petrol station near the turn off for Fairhead and fueled up for the day.

Headed back to the camp site and saw that there were a few heads heading bouldering - I plead my case and convinced them that Murlough Bay was THE place to go and despite initial hesitation, my plea must have had weight because after a few minutes discussion we were all bundled into the back of Phil's van and heading towards my destination of choice!

Phil left us at the car park and we headed off on what was a nice down hill stroll towards the boulders -

It looked epic!

The boulders were a composition of highball monsters in amongst a mess of broken blocks and were set against a back drop of the awesome sight of Fairhead craig, the edges of which were defined by a clear blue sky and as I walked towards what I knew was going to be a really special day's climbing, I thought - my god I love my sport!

Fairhead.

We arrived at the 'Letter M' boulder, which curiously enough has a letter 'M' chiseled into it?

Warmed up on the slab on the back of the block, followed by the line 'Brought to you by the Letter M' (5+). It's a really classy line with satisfyingly positive crimps and a nice top out that gets your head in the game for what's to come!

I then moved on to 'Crazy Arete' (6a) and fell off the start of it before sending it on the next go. Another cool problem of open hand slopey arete holds finishing at the same-ish point as the previous problem.

The nerd I am, I had studied the guide and watched some videos and looked at photos before I went to Fairhead bouldering and all in all, the one boulder I wanted to visit more than any other was the 'Eat It' boulder.

'Eat It'

I had looked through the bouldering guide and it caught my attention just as a block. Barry then mentioned that he was on for looking at it and I thought, ok it's not just the photo in the guide - this thing is really worth a look!

'Eat It' (7a) is listed in the back of the guide as one of THE problems in Ireland to try. Ricky Young met us earlier at the 'Letter M' boulder and brought us over to 'Eat It'.

Looking at the problem I was instantly inspired. It looked tough but doable with work. I easily caught the opening throw from a really positive crimp way out right at a long stretch to another crimp,. Time and time again I caught it, but couldn't move from it, so I though - right, time to work the next move...

Me on 'Eat It' (7a)

Starting from where I caught the first throw, I bumped my right hand out along the rail which turns into a deeper jug from the initial crimp. The jug is so deep I found I could cut loose, with my left hand and feet and still re-establish myself on the rock comfortably. I moved up to the next right hand throw and caught it...

Unsure of what to do next and under pressure from the intense moves, I dropped off.

I took a leaf out of Ricky's book and took off my climbing shoes to force a break from my efforts- I knew I was too eager and getting tired. We had been at the block for over an hour at that stage.

Colm had joined us, and was making as much progress as me on the problem but refused to take any sort of break and just seemed to possess some sort of unending energy for climbing. I wanted to know what he had for breakfast...

He said Sugar Puffs...

I put my shoes back on having had a substantial break and decided I would try the problem from the start. I caught the opening hold from the throw and to my amazement managed to bump my hand across and stick it. I matched the rail and threw my right hand up to the next hold about a foot higher up.

In disbelief at my progress I went all out and thew for the top rail before the lip and caught it.

Barry had a arrived over and had smoothly moved through the line only moments before. He stuck a comfortable looking heel up onto the rail before throwing over the lip and I thought - that must be the way!

Holding the crimp with my right hand and the hold lower down with my left I ignored the obvious foot hold and attempted to move my heel onto the rail. It didn't work and I fell. I wasn't a bit bothered and thought - I'll just send it next go!

I never got near catching the opening hold with any authority for the rest of the session. My muscles were sore and tired after so many hours on the problem - we must have spent 4 hours there. For me, the moves were intense and my left shoulder and right arm and hand are aching now as I type!!

I was pretty chuffed that my beta seemed to sort out a send of the problem for Colm though. As I had been told in the past by many climbers down the Co op to relax onto the good holds, so I passed my acquired knowledge on, and the very next attempt Colm chilled out on a long straight arm as opposed to continuously cranking whilst catching the jug on the rail and moved through the rest of the problem with conviction and ease.

He was chuffed with the send - Ricky sent it straight after - and somewhere in the middle of all my messing, John Howard, who had just joined us at the 'Eat It' boulder nearly flashed the problem before sending it on his second go.

Barry and John both took attempts on the sitter to 'Eat It' (7b+), Barry caught the opening throw. The move is really long and I thought - it's nice to know, as in the case of 'Rhythm and Stealth' (7a) in Glendalough, that once the stand start to 'Eat It' is complete - the fun isn't over! It looks nails hard and is a fine excuse to return to the block over and over again!!

Colm had moved on to working the Arete to the right of 'Eat It' - a line called 'Stop Feeding It' (7a+) John had just flashed it and Colm was making fantastic progress on it and before we all knew it he was at the top out which was more or less the same place as the top out of 'Eat It' (7a) He looked like sending it but seemed strangely stuck in the one spot.

It never occurred to me that he wouldn't send it and I thought he was just taking a breath before pushing through his heel and standing up -

He exploded off the top of the line and plummeted to the mats below falling right on top of John who was in the wrong place at the wrong time - John seemed to be flattened by the fall but the two, after shaking off their initial shock appeared to walk away ok - though John's knee certainly took the brunt of it.

That fall may have even been more epic a bouldering fall than I saw Squib take in Albarracin last month. In the excitement of the prospect of somebody sending, it can be quite easy to forget how high up they are and how sometimes...

Shit happens.

Colm sent the line on his next attempt

I was absolutely shattered as we moved on from our 4 or 5 hour stint on the 'Eat It' boulder. The guys seemed eager to try 'Missing in Action' (6a/7a?) and though impressively enough he sent the line first, Colm had a bit of an epic top out which left me with a sinking feeling and a rock solid excuse not to put my boots on.

Barry on Missing in Action (6a/7a?)

I was tired and wanted to boulder the following day... Barry sent it followed by John and they headed off along with Michael before the rest of us went to check out Carbide (7a)

Having nothing left in the tank, I watched the beta come together on Carbide safe in the knowledge I'd be back in the morning. The top out look horrendous but I was looking forward to seeing if I could do my usual trick of convincing myself I was only two foot off the ground and could make the move the following day.

We set off home from the boulders that evening at about 8.30pm and the walk out was about as much as I could take. Scrambling over boulders is far more stressful a prospect than climbing them for me. I'm never scared bouldering but scrambling leaves my ankles in tatters and my nerves in shreds...

Weird.

On the way out we stopped at a giant boulder near the sea front which had lots of chalk marks on it and lead up what appeared to be some of the most beautiful face climbing I've seen in some time - it was difficult to tell how hard or easy the lines were, but I'd love to get back and try them!!

We arrived back in the campsite and ate dinner and I swapped stories of bouldering and heard stories of trad climbing epics in return. There were 12 boulderers out sending lines at Fairhead this year, and it had the feel of a meet all on it's own.

The trad scene was obviously overrun, and with the sunshine and psyche, the day went well for one and all and culminated in a gathering of around 100 climbers in a shed on a farm in Fairhead watching a slideshow projected onto a white sheet of climbing footage taken over the last 6 months by Ricky Bell and Paul Swail.

The footage is nothing short of insane!!

I woke up and couldn't wait to get to the boulders this morning... 15 minutes later, the rain started...

and didn't stop.

Footage of Fairhead Bouldering by the 'Tops off for Power' crew: http://vimeo.com/23933949 ... enjoy! x x

My favorite bit of gear for Fairhead!

Thanks to Jordan who took all of the photos all day.

albarraCIN

It's difficult to say what I think of Albarracin as a bouldering location in the sense that we really only had 2 days bouldering there, and the second of those days was hampered by the bottles of beautiful cheap wine consumed the night before at the campsite.

There is no doubt that Albarracin is a beautiful spot. The bouldering area looks much like the prettiest parts of Font, except the rock is red. The village is stunning and the drive from the campsite to the boulders is very short, the walk in from the car even shorter still.

I met Squib in Reus airport and we rented our car for the 5 days, packing it full of my bouldering gear and 3 weeks worth of his sport climbing gear. With little or no idea where to go, the directions from Google reading: Head north-east....

ehhh??

This way?... why not!

BANG!

Now I don't know what it is these past 2 bouldering trips abroad but less than 1km from Reus airport we were rear-ended whilst yielding to on coming traffic.

The car shoved forward with a loud bang and myself and Squib looked at each other... what can one say?!

No one was hurt and the lady who rented us the car was pretty sure it was a new record - 2 minutes out of the airport... car trashed.

So the replacement to our VW was - to Squib's disgust - a Fiat Punto which flew along at a staggering 130kmph, foot to the floor.

I shall only briefly mention our 3 hour detour to Castellon on our 4 hour road trip.

We checked out Decathlon and did our weeks grocery shopping. Castellon is to be avoided at all costs forever more, it's a great big industrial vacant mess that offered none of the rich Spanish experience we were after.

Having set off at 1pm, trashing a car, buying new climbing shoes and flip flops, stocking up on food - we finally arrived at Albarracin at 9pm, or was it 10pm...

We were trashed.

Accommodation at Camping Quidad de Albarracin in one of their bungalows is plush indeed for a bouldering trip, but there's something about the bungalows that just doesn't seem right for boulderers... can't put my finger on it.

Having said that - the people who run the show there really did everything and anything that Squib and I asked for, including wash loads for free - internet access in their office -free, as well as allowing us to print documents etc etc etc.... lovely people.

Thursday morning... To the boulders!

Area: Arrastradero

It was so hot to start off with. We found a lovely flat wall of pockets, perfect for clambering about on, traversing back and forth, climbing up and down - I wanted to take that bit of warm-up rock home to Ireland with me.

We set off after a good warm up session and found a pretty cool looking boulder (36) Started on 'El Método Decide' (6b) and made short work of it. My muscles felt good to go - had a feeling it was going to be a really good days bouldering. we moved over to the other side of the boulder and did the stand start to El Esquinazo (6c). Made short work of that too... Definitely the quickest 6c boulder problem I've ever put away.

We then started to work the sit start version (7a) and just as Squib caught the opening move, the skies darkened and it started pouring rain. We sheltered under a large over hang on our first afternoon's bouldering in Albarracin and both just had to laugh...

Was this all the bouldering we'd get done?

It got worse and worse and there were loud claps of thunder... during a lull in the downpour we made our way back to the car. I was gutted. I get this feeling in my muscles only sometimes when I do sport. I used to get it when I trained as a trampolinist and now when it happens, I know I'm going to go well.

I was pretty miffed to walk away from the boulders - probably because it was the first day too...

Woke up the next day to beautiful sunshine and headed straight back to Arrastradero. The problems there are great and there's loads of variety as I found out. We warmed up again and found a really cool 6a roof problem. Really enjoyed that one. It's got a catchy name: problem 'd' boulder 43.

That day was spent attempting to avoid a smattering of french teenagers we liked to call 'team france'. As they invaded the boulders we were working, we moved on and found a slab that Squib had his eye on since the previous day.

Slabs are definitely not my strength, and while Squib made short work of the first problem on Boulder 14... Again aptly named problem 'g' (6b) I found myself second guessing a jump that has to be made to top out.

The moves up to the launch position were great, but once there I just couldn't find it in me to commit to the jump. That left me a bit bewildered because I rarely second guess myself when throwing for holds... In fact it's the one thing I'd say I have fairly nailed down.

Not that day though.

Verging on intimidated, I moved on to working another problem on the same face called La Lágrima (6c+)

It was seriously delicate and it took us ages to work out the opening sequence. Squib finally unlocked it and though it was definitely not my favorite style of climbing, the moves were great. Squib did really well - he loves his technical slabs! I came agonisingly close to sending it, but slabs in the blistering heat are not fun and our skin was being removed layer by layer in the unforgiving temperatures, so again I walked away.

We moved back to the sit start we had been working the day before 'El Esquinazo' (7a). Squib worked out the opening moves and strung the whole thing together nicely. The previous day he had the top out nailed down and as I watched him make the top out move, not spotting, his right foot exploded off the rock and he was thrown backwards on to the pads below, rolling back and hitting this, that and the other.

I like to think I got a hand to his ankle as he rolled backwards, preventing him from going any further than he did, but have yet to forgive myself for not being on the ball. Squib was a little shook and I got the fright of my life. It's the biggest bouldering fall I've seen for sure and it could have been prevented.

Lesson learned, sorry Squib!

Squib jumped straight back on the problem and sent it. Really great effort. I tried to string the moves together, but my heart wasn't in it after the fall Squib took and my tips were down to the bare minimum after the slabs we had worked on earlier.

Squib moved on to a really good looking 7b 'El Concilio' between the two other problems we sent on boulder 36. The moves we great and I had fun trying them individually. Again - Squib looked strong and came desperately close to sending it. The crimp before the launch to the top looked desperate and sharp and having removed most of his tips on the slabs earlier that day - it was time to walk away.

Lastly we moved on to boulder 48 which 'team france' had stolen from us earlier in the day. It was cooler in the evening when we arrived and I had good fun flashing a '5', problem 'd', which had nice little moves around the back of the boulder before a silly top out, but the whole thing made me smile and I was excited to see what the rest of the bloc had in store.

We moved on to a 6a+ just beside to the left and my lack of strength at the end of the day coupled with my sorry looking tips made it too much of an ask for me. Squib had a good few attempts at it before he stamped his authority on it and sent it.

Again, moving left, we started working on a 7a mantle problem. We had lots of attempts trying to unlock the sequence. The mantle was bold and I was happy to call it a day. Squib had been getting closer and closer and he finally stood up out of it holding two of the most precarious looking under-cut crimps, he eyed up the top.

There was nothing else to do but jump. The landing was not nice and our boulder pads were not the best in the world and though I was there spotting like I'd never spotted before, I knew if Squib didn't catch the top of the boulder, gravity would be strong and swift.

He launched and slapped, swinging out in spectacular style as he established his hand on the top of the boulder.

Sweet relief!

He topped out and it was definitely one of the most exciting boulder problems I've seen done in front of me.

We packed up and headed off.

I had been a little disgruntled with my performance that day, but at the time Squib said we'd climbed so much, and having written all I have about our Friday in AlbarraCIN, I don't think I've ever done as much work on as many problems in one day before!!

Money in the bank!!

Saturday became a write off as we woke up to an overcast morning that quickly turned to relentless raining all day long. We went for a drive into town to stock up and find an ATM, forgetting about the Spanish siesta and everything was shut.

We drove around a bit and finally decided to throw on our rain coats and have a walk. Albarracin is just stunning. Seeing as we had only left to find a shop and an ATM, I didn't bring my camera, but the views from the top of the defensive wall built to protect Albarracin are etched in my memory. So too is the sight of fork lightening as we stood on top of said defensive wall...

The lightening was little unnerving for two tall thin people like myself and Squib, but nevertheless it was all breathtaking and very pretty indeed.

We strolled back to the car and headed back to our Bungalow, safe in the knowledge, having spoken to our Spanish Campsite lady, that the sun would be out for our last day at the boulders.

The final day was preceded by a lovely meal and maybe one or two too many glasses of the really good wine they sell at the campsite for €3 a bottle... Too tempting!

With heads a little foggy, we decided to check out a new area called 'Sol'. We didn't put two and two together though and when we got there it became obvious why the place was named 'Sol'... the Spanish for 'Sun'.

The trees that shelter much of the other areas from direct sunlight are absent from the 'Sol' bouldering sector and most of the blocs were baking in blistering 25 degree heat.

We did try some very cool problems though and like the previous Thursday, Squib was on form and looking strong. Having bouldered for so many years he has an envious ability to read sequences and intuitively know what will work and what won't work. It's a sureness of thought and movement I can only hope will come to me with such vast experience.

The first problem we did after warming up was a 6b+ on Boulder 11. Squib flashed it and I immediately said 'pff, bit of a soft 6b+!'

Time to eat my words!!

It took me about ten attempts to send the line and that was with all the beta Squib could send my way. It's a really great line though and having failed time and time again on it before finally sending it, I can now say it's not a soft 6b+...

Squib is just quite strong!

After that I had a great time trying to muscle my way up 'Top Model' 6b on boulder 13. It's a roof problem with a mantle top out and while all the moves were mine, my arms just didn't have the umph to follow through and allow me to send the line. Squib made the point that I should be hauling most of my weight on my feet, but by the time I came to putting his good sense into action, my arms were pumped and I had to leave it.

I was a bit gutted.

Around the corner there was this striking looking boulder that was perched above smaller blocs making the landing desperate. Boulder 17 is definitely one of the most dramatic looking blocs I saw in Albarracin and Squib jumped on problem 'b' 7a+ and made little work of it, sending it quickly and leaving me thinking I might have a go...

I had to listed to my arms though and they were still screaming at me for not using my feet on the previous 6b.

We did a bit of a recce to gain inspiration on what would be our final projects and as luck would have it we found a desperate 7a and an absolutely desperate 6b right by each other on this great boulder - Boulder 29

Karmansia (7a) would see Squib enthralled for the rest of our final day. The moves are great, really powerful and dynamic, when I realised it was so far beyond me that I could barely pull onto it, I went and found myself and fun little 6a traverse just over the way on bouder 30 called Alvaridades.

While he rested from his project, Squib became director of photography and I played about the the traverse sending a few different times for the fun and the good photo op!

Headed back to our projects and I started working on my 6b. We took turns working each project and really this 6b had a lot of figuring out in it. Squib was powerful enough to throw for each of the holds. I had to spend a little longer working out a tricky little sequence that saw me holding the final two jugs before the top out.

I was absolutely chuffed with myself. really delighted that I had worked out a sequence that worked for me. I could get to the two jugs pretty consistently but when push came to shove I couldn't bring my feet up into the rather scrunched position I needed to be in before topping out.

I couldn't be sad though. I arrived at that line unable to do the powerful throws and figured out a static way up the problem.

Squib linked all the moves before the DESPERATE top out on his 7a problem, Karmasia. He finally figured out what to do at the top but it was getting late and we had to hit the road for our epic trip back to Reus through the night.

We only got 2 days of bouldering done in Albarracin, but what I saw I loved.

May is definitely not the time to visit. It was either raining or way too hot and while I enjoyed the trip so much, the icing on the cake would have been lower temperatures and no rain.

Cannot wait to get back there -

On the trip back we saw some sort of airport near Teruel which is the next town on from Albarracin.

This would certainly take the sting out of the 4 hours drive to and from Reus.

AlbarraCIN... es bueno!

Weak as Tim?

There was little else I thought about for the last week... It was plainly obvious to those I work with that my mind was somewhere else - I spoke to various non-climbing folk about it but they just looked puzzled... Rhythm and Stealth meant nothing to them but everything to me.

I crossed the river over to Big Jane this morning and I knew I had it in me... I just wasn't sure it would all come together. Dec sounded certain as he repeatedly told me that I'd get Rhythm and Stealth today...

So we arrived at the problem having warmed up in the ruins. I was strong on the opening sequence and slapped up to the crimp, but like last week - I narrowly missed out each time, spinning off only to be caught by Mark who's spotting made working the problem easy as I never had to think twice about going for each move. Dec sent it after 2 or 3 attempts and I said 'right, one last go'...


I moved easily through the opening sequence and slapped up to the crimp and caught it, I looked down to the right to move my heel up but my left hand greased off the crimp and I was spat off the line again.


I was delighted I'd caught the crimp - and it felt positive from the angle you catch it - but I was so disappointed to have fallen off. I said I was happy to walk away, but the guys were so encouraging of me to try again. I slapped up but failed to catch the crimp and fell once again.


I said 'ok that's it, I'm done'


Again I was delighted to have caught the crimp once and knew I'd be back in the morning...


Mark said he'd like another go on the problem and I kept my shoes on, happily using his last go as an excuse to take one final shot at sending Rhythm and Stealth after he was done.


I stood under the problem knowing that I wouldn't waste this attempt. Dec had suggested marking my arm with chalk to know how much of it disappears around the boulder before the crimp is caught. I did so and felt like I was writing notes on my forearm before I went into an exam!


I pulled on and felt really positive through the opening moves. I slapped with way more effort than ever before up to the crimp and caught it. My heart was racing as I easily moved my heel into the opening jug. I reached up with my right hand to the finishing hold and thought, 'oh my god, this is it - I can send this!'


I knew the top out was hard, but had just seen Dec make it look easy, so I thought just do it his way!! I matched my left hand up and moved out right... I asked Dec to give me some beta and standing on the boulder behind he talked me through it.


With arms shaking as I refused point blank to let go, I moved my left foot up to the finishing jug and rocked over.


It was mine, Rhythm and Stealth was sent!


My first 7a.


Haven't stopped smiling since.


We had icecreams in the car park after.

Irish Bouldering Meet 2011

Claire and I on our way back after checking out (and I mean looking at!) Wonderland (8b)

Tim and John

Dec on The Goat (7a)

Looking back on this weekend, it was a whirlwind of boulder problems, smiles and far to much drink and food!

I had never been to a boulder meet before and I was really looking forward to this weekend. Last week was torture as I sat in work with a sore back, looking out at a clear blue sky that was forecast to hold for the weekend.

I counted down the minutes to the end of my working day on Friday and sulked my way home after what seemed to be the longest 9am-5pm in history! I couldn't get psyched when I got home on Friday and spent the evening halfheartedly packing things for the weekend. It was really only just before I went to bed that I it hit me... I was going bouldering in the morning...

It took me ages to get to sleep then as I lay in bed thinking about all the problems I wanted to do in the morning...

As usual, the alarm clock went off far too early and it was time to get up and go! I met Jack and Jonno down in Dundrum and before long, Dec pulled up and we all piled into his car and set off for Glendalough... PSYCHED!

It was our impression that we were running behind the guys who had stayed down in the IMC Hut the previous night. When we arrived in Glendalough we were expecting the boulders to be well warmed up, but to our surprise we were the first ones there, with the exception of Barry who met on his way out of the valley after a very early start!

So we got warmed up and finishing on 'The Rails' before we saw more boulder pads with legs wandering along the path in the distance - the troop had arrived! We all made our way over to Big Jim and played on some more bits and bobs before Tim asked: 'Trish!, Andy's Arete?'

Hell yeah!! Over we went and it was the same story as last time, I felt solid then my foot popped, time and time again. I just haven't figured it out yet and knowing the amount of problems I could potentially get on to during the day, I made myself move on from it and we went to try Rhythm and Stealth again.

Kev Power on Rhythm and Stealth (7a)

For me, I think Rhythm and Stealth was the high point of the day. Jonno nearly flashed it but his sleeve got in his way as he went for the crimp, he quickly got back on it with his sleeves rolled up and sent it. Tim looked solid but ran out of steam on the top move and had to step off the problem. Again he tried but this time peeled off the top, in slightly more spectacular style, but third time lucky, he sent it - really great effort from him!

Dec then sent Rhythm and Stealth and it seemed to me that the energy for the day was just rising and rising the whole time. John Howard then got on the sit start to Rhythm and Stealth - the much famed line 'Leftism' (7c). He had it wired and he made it look easy. Once he got the opening sequence out of the way (which was awesome to watch) and hit the start of Rhythm and Stealth there was little doubt in my mind that the problem would be topped out. He grabbed the top hold and really took his time shaking out and preparing for the top out which is pretty demanding after the long and very over hanging sequence that leads up to it. It was fantastic to see the problem being done and John sitting on the top of the boulder chuffed to bits!

This is his send:

Though there's no doubt that Leftism was the high point of his day, John didn't finish there. He ticked The Goat (7a) and F@*K All Left (7a) as well. Not a bad day at the office!!

Tim got so very close to ticking F@*K All Left, but it seemed his skin just hadn't recovered from a long day's climbing the previous Thursday and with the sharp unforgiving holds on the line, it just became too much of an ask to hold on anymore... Next time for sure!

Went up and had a go on 'The Fin' (7a+) and I remember about a year ago sitting under it and not even understanding how to get off the ground. A year ago I could barely get into the opening position of the sit start. Yesterday I could pull off the ground and make a fairly decent effort at throwing for the opening hold, so I was pleased with that.

I suppose my lack of actual projecting on any particular problem means that I'm not ticking anything at the moment, but it's nice to be experiencing small steps of progress on everything I'm trying each time I try it!

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't slightly miffed that I didn't tick anything this weekend, but as I said during the day to Tim, you can't have as much fun as the lot of us did and come away in a grump! It was a really great day.

By the time we left we were all shattered. After a quick stop at the IMC Hut to change clothes and wash hands etc we headed off to the pub and so the craic began! It was pretty tame at first, we ordered food, then all got a bit sleepy before the rest of the guys arrived and breathed new life into the night! There were loads of beers, some great moves on the dance floor and even a cartwheel display on the way home!

We got back to the hut and all sat around having great chats and I laughed so hard my cheeks were sore by the end of the night. So much fun! Though a few people were sensible (kind of) and nipped off to bed before it got really really late, Dave sent the rest of us to bed in the wee hours.

Waking up this morning was a struggle and getting out of bed was even worse! When we all finally did, and looked out the window it was not the weather we were promised. Misty rain hung in the air and everything was damp and cold.

'The rain's kind of a relief' Tim was the first to say it, and despite my disappointment, I knew he was right - we were all feeling the effects of a late night and we had all put serious effort in the day before and had no skin and aching muscles. I sat this morning in a daze at the table in the hut and realised I had no breakfast with me... reluctant to eat anything at first with my iffy stomach, I was aware that hunger would hit me at some point... It was then that a full irish breakfast was unceremoniously slapped down in front of me... I've rarely been so happy and have to say a big thank you to Tim and James for rustling it up!! Yummy!

I have to say It would have been nice to go hang out at the boulders and try some problems if it was sunny but between the hangovers and the weather the day was doomed to be a write off and as I sit here smiling as I think about Saturday and the Irish Bouldering Meet 2011, there are no feelings of remorse over not getting out today.

Yesterday had it all!

Me on The Goat (7a)

Thanks to Dec for the lift down, Tim for the psyche, James for the torch and Dave for bringing it all together!

:)