The difference. I used my right thumb.
Ron's beta from yesterday had me on the right track for sure - but the right hand crimp always felt precarious for me, and John spotted my mistake just before he left.
He told me to engage my thumb on the hold in order to gain more purchase and it made all the difference.
I had argued with Ron yesterday that the crux was the drop back onto the left hand undercut - but today, I think I have to eat my words. I've figured out that move to such an extent now, that I think the following move is, in fact, the crux.
Me working Solstice (7a+)
Before we left the Cave yesterday, Claire had said she was eager to return the following day, but I said I was too tired, and a rest day was in order. I thought at the time, there's no WAY I'm climbing in the Cave tomorrow!!
I did nothing yesterday but sit down and chill out after the morning Cave session, and by the evening, I thought... 'hmmm... I'm eager to sort out the move I'm having trouble with - I'm doing nothing else in the morning... better go to the Cave so!'
I text Claire to make sure she was still going and said that I'd changed my mind...
Her reply: Ha! You caved!
Another early start today and just as I was getting ready to leave, Dec text me to see if I was climbing this morning, I wasted no time in telling him that he HAD to come to the Cave. He hadn't been there before and I told him it was amazing. (then I just hoped the Cave would be dry!)
We all met up at Sutton Cross and drove to the parking spot. The morning was beautiful as the sun beat down on us on the walk in.
John, Steve and Diarmuid arrived along and while John worked on his current project at the back of the Cave, I was drilling the moves on Solstice, Claire, and Dec were on Loco Total and Eamon was on Afterthought.
Sure enough the Cave was lovely as it has been over the last while and we got straight to work.
Dec flashed Caroline's Traverse (6b) and made pretty impressive progress on Loco Total. He moved through until the link up with Carolines, making short work of the gymnastic moves that make up the first half of the problem.
Dec Working Loco Total (7a)
John, Steve and Diarmuid arrived along and while John worked on his current project at the back of the Cave, I was drilling the moves on Solstice, Claire, and Dec were on Loco Total and Eamon was on Afterthought.John's project was a bit damp - it's right at the back and just didn't seem to dry out like the rest of the Cave had done. He went off to try some projects he'd found out of the Cave and around the corner. Looking forward to checking them out, but I still have a lot of lines I want to try in the Cave before I turn my focus elsewhere!
Having ripped an impressive flapper on one of her fingers yesterday, Claire continued to tear chunks out of her hands today. No matter though, as major progress was made on Loco Total.
Eamon demoed his sequence through Loco, and nearly finished it - as is so often the case when people climb the line - he just dropped off on the final move!
We all packed up and headed off. Claire had text me this morning to politely request that I leave my shit boulder mat at home, because she had an extra better pad that I could carry in instead. My music and my boulder pad vetoed!!
On the walk out we listened to the squeaky buckles on Claires spare pad squeak with every footstep. Claire then asked if I'd remind her later to oil the buckles so next time we wouldn't be driven demented!!!
I think my boulder pad has been officially retired.
No comments:
Post a Comment