Deroxmainie (6c) Cuvier Rempart, Fontainebleau

A few photos of me working on Deroxmainie

Finally sent it! :)

Cheers to Eamon for the photos!

Portrane

Went for an evening session in Portrane today -

Haven't been there since before I joined the co op and I was excited to see how well I'd do! The rock is so different there - it all seems so polished and slippy and it just has to be held differently than the Wicklow granite I spend most of my time on.

Katie warming up

Had a great evening with Katie, Johno and Darragh in 'The Arch' area of Portrane - After warming up on Richie's Problem (5) and Problem 19 (6a) Katie and I worked away on 'Morning Glory' (6b) while the guys seem to blitz their way through the problems starting from Spiderman (6c+) and then moving along to X-Men (6c).

Darragh on Spiderman (6c+)

Johno on Morning Glory (6b)

After finishing up working on, but not sending, Morning Glory (6b) Katie and I joined the guys and started working on a sequence for X-Men (6c). Johno came within inches of flashing the problem only to be denied - he sent it a few attempts later. Darragh made short work of it too.

Johno on X-Men (6c)

The guys moved on to 'Radioactive Seaweed' (6c), sent after a few attempts - and 'Bop to the Top' (7a) which caused them trouble.

Johno on Radioactive Seaweed (6c)

Darragh on Radioactive Seaweed (6c)

Katie and I stayed working 'X-Men' and while I couldn't work out the opening move - Katie made it look easy. I got there eventually but really felt like I left my brain at home tonight...

Me working X-Men (6c)

The opening of the problem came together for me just as my energy disappeared. Can't wait to get back to it. I think the problem will go for me very quickly once I have the ability to think and remember to eat before I head bouldering next time!

Zapped.

Rhythm and Stealth - Phat Planet

Here's to the best quality line I've sent!

Weak as Tim?

There was little else I thought about for the last week... It was plainly obvious to those I work with that my mind was somewhere else - I spoke to various non-climbing folk about it but they just looked puzzled... Rhythm and Stealth meant nothing to them but everything to me.

I crossed the river over to Big Jane this morning and I knew I had it in me... I just wasn't sure it would all come together. Dec sounded certain as he repeatedly told me that I'd get Rhythm and Stealth today...

So we arrived at the problem having warmed up in the ruins. I was strong on the opening sequence and slapped up to the crimp, but like last week - I narrowly missed out each time, spinning off only to be caught by Mark who's spotting made working the problem easy as I never had to think twice about going for each move. Dec sent it after 2 or 3 attempts and I said 'right, one last go'...


I moved easily through the opening sequence and slapped up to the crimp and caught it, I looked down to the right to move my heel up but my left hand greased off the crimp and I was spat off the line again.


I was delighted I'd caught the crimp - and it felt positive from the angle you catch it - but I was so disappointed to have fallen off. I said I was happy to walk away, but the guys were so encouraging of me to try again. I slapped up but failed to catch the crimp and fell once again.


I said 'ok that's it, I'm done'


Again I was delighted to have caught the crimp once and knew I'd be back in the morning...


Mark said he'd like another go on the problem and I kept my shoes on, happily using his last go as an excuse to take one final shot at sending Rhythm and Stealth after he was done.


I stood under the problem knowing that I wouldn't waste this attempt. Dec had suggested marking my arm with chalk to know how much of it disappears around the boulder before the crimp is caught. I did so and felt like I was writing notes on my forearm before I went into an exam!


I pulled on and felt really positive through the opening moves. I slapped with way more effort than ever before up to the crimp and caught it. My heart was racing as I easily moved my heel into the opening jug. I reached up with my right hand to the finishing hold and thought, 'oh my god, this is it - I can send this!'


I knew the top out was hard, but had just seen Dec make it look easy, so I thought just do it his way!! I matched my left hand up and moved out right... I asked Dec to give me some beta and standing on the boulder behind he talked me through it.


With arms shaking as I refused point blank to let go, I moved my left foot up to the finishing jug and rocked over.


It was mine, Rhythm and Stealth was sent!


My first 7a.


Haven't stopped smiling since.


We had icecreams in the car park after.

The Mayonnaise Jar

Thanks to Eamon for this -

I haven't seen it before and it's lovely...

When things in your life seem, almost too much to handle, when 24 hours in a day not enough is,remember the mayonnaise jar and 2 cups of coffee.

A professor stood before his philosophy class, and had some items in front of him.
When the class began, wordlessly, he picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls.

He then asked the students, if the jar was full. They agreed that it was.

The professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles rolled into the open Areas between the golf balls.

He then asked the students again if the jar was full. They agreed it was.

The professor next picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He asked once more if the jar was full. The students responded with a unanimous 'yes.'

The professor then produced two cups of coffee from under the table and poured the entire contents into the jar, effectively filling the empty space between the sand. The students laughed.

'Now,' said the professor, as the laughter subsided, 'I want you to recognize that this jar represents your life.
The golf balls are the important things - family, children, health, Friends, and Favorite passions – things that if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full.

The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, house, and car.

The sand is everything else -The small stuff.

If you put the sand into the jar first,’ He continued, there is no room for the pebbles or the golf balls.
The same goes for life.

If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff, you will never have room for the things that are important to you.

So…………………..

Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness.
Play With your children.
Take time to get medical checkups.
Take your partner out to dinner.

There will always be time to clean the house.

Take care of the golf balls first - The things that really matter.
Set your priorities. The rest is just sand.

One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the coffee represented.

The professor smiled. 'I'm glad you asked'.

It just goes to show you that no matter how full your life may seem, there's always room for a couple of cups of coffee with a friend

BANG!

Was psyched to have a blast today in Glendalough, and started well warming up on the usual before out of nowhere, as I walked across a rock near The Rails I slipped on some grass and fell backwards cracking my ass/hip off the rock.

I flinched into the fetal position, it hurt so much there were even tears...

It's sore to move... I can only describe it as having stunned my muscles and a dull pain lingers all down my femur and all over my ass and lower back with the point of impact a far sharper type of pain!! Not good!

I went off to lie down, feeling pretty dizzy, I thought I might fall over - downed a bottle of lucozade and felt better after that. joined the guys on the end of the warm up and climbed a slab behind The Rails, but my hip and back were just too sore and it wasn't worth climbing.

Sat out the rest of the session in Glendo until we got to Rhythm and Stealth, had to give it a go and having caught the compression move last week for the first time, this session I could catch it consistently and slap up to the crimp narrowly missing out each time... One attempt saw me miss out by only a fraction.

My mind was on the pain though, so I'm hoping that means that the next time I'm on the problem and focused, it should go...

I'm glad to have done another session on Rhythm and Stealth but if I was very sensible I would have sat it out as my back is screaming at me now!!

I look forward to an unmerciful bruise!

:'(

'Memories come down on me once again, I'm caught without an umbrella...'

Quote: Michael Franti, Spearhead.

For 7 years or there abouts I trained most days. From the age of 15 having finished up 10 years of gymnastics, I began trampolining. Gymnastics was too hard and I was too thin and too tall to really succeed how I wanted to. I loved the sport but it was too tough on my frail physique at the time.

Trampolining was in it's infancy in Ireland in 1998. There was quite simply nobody 'training' trampolining in Ireland at the time. I came from a strict gym, it was fun for me, but it was strict. I brought the discipline I had learned in gymnastics to my training in the student trampoline club I started in and was more or less laughed at, at first.

Understandably so as the rather bemused students must have thought 'who's this child who doesn't speak, trains every session, and doesn't drink?' - I looked about 12 at the time, and kept a low profile for the first year. Everyone there was at least 3 years older than me - most were 5-10 years older...

So I trained everyday, and met team mates who came and went, but I stayed on, training and training to what end I didn't know at the time... I just trained.

The sport began to develop and those who developed it included me as the best female trampolinist from the republic, but at the same time seemed to resent my very existence. The first world championships rolled around in 2003, and despite having the goods to bring to the table, it was with scoffs and tuts from those in charge that I was awarded my place on the junior team. (you can be over 18 and still compete in junior worlds in trampolining...)

We travelled to Hanover and I placed 42, or 43 or something. I was, to the best of my memory, the only Irish girl (or one of the only Irish girls) to finish my routine on my feet. Every other routine was recorded on camera. Except mine.

The placings came up after the competition and my name was all funny. I can't remember exactly what the spelling was, but it bore little resemblance to my name and the head of the squad said 'whatever, don't worry about it' and it was left at that.

2005 rolled in and I was awarded a place on the senior team travelling to the World Championships. I would be the first girl from Ireland, North or South to represent the country at senior worlds. With a full mens team we travelled to Eindhoven, Holland.

I had trained for 7 years, paid for flights, hotel, tracksuit etc with no subsidy, (the bill for which I'd rather forget). I was told when I arrived I wouldn't compete. No reason. No comeback. No support. There was nothing I could do and no one cared.

I remember sitting in tears in the tiers watching the competition. The Irish rotation came in. We were to compete with my heroes at the time - the Chinese Team. It always went - female competitor, male competitor, female competitor, male competitor and so on...

When it would have been my turn, two male competitors went in a row - I was inconsolable. I was told to stop crying and support the men's team. Sitting in my Irish tracksuit, with the flag at my feet I couldn't even look up.

People said to me when I got back to Ireland, 'you have to continue'... I gave up almost straight away. Never 'training' again.

I suppose the point of me writing this is firstly because it's come up a couple of times recently and it's an awkward story to tell without ruining the fun that's usually on the go.

But secondly and more importantly, a bad experience shouldn't mean the end of one's sporting career. I went away after trampolining and did a 4 year degree, I coached gymnastics to pay my way, but didn't really do any sport at all. I needed the break.

After trampolining, I could never have known that I'd find bouldering and all the amazing times, awesome places and incredible friends it's offered me.

Every time I send a problem I've been projecting, I sit at the top of the boulder and think how happy this sport has made me, which I guess explains the over sized smile and utter elation on my face at the top of each of my sends.

It's not just the sport though. It's sport+people+situation... I've been in sport since I was 5 and for the first time, I feel like I've got all 3 just right.

The Weird and the Wonderful!

Had a most wonderful weekend in Wicklow,

A night bouldering session on friday saw a rampage on the problems in 'the ruins' area of Glendalough. We had a session on Barry's new rediscovered old Michael Duffy problem: ADP (6C) which is a really cool line that throws from an opening crimp to the lip of a roof followed by a long right throw and traverses right to top out with a big jug.

Diarmuid sent it after figuring out all the moves... it's going to take me a few more sessions as the moves are very powerful. Happy with the progress I made on it though.

Had a few attempts at the opening of 'Quality Control' (6c) and got closer to catching it. Diarmuid looked like sending the problem but it's a difficult one to see without good light and so we joined the others at White Arrow (6b) Brilliant fun at that problem. I came within a few inches of flashing it and in subsequent attempts I couldn't get off the ground. Dave and Diarmuid got it eventually and we all called it a night. Woke up the next morning and it was a beautiful day. Heads were sore though and the heat of the sun in the cloudless sky motivated us to sit beside the boulders rather than climb them.

There were handstands, and a new game of shoe bowls and general silliness before Dave started climbing a (new?) traverse across Big Jim. Had great craic attempting the line but the psyche for a decent effort was low for me. Dave made great progress across it, but I can't remember if he actually topped it out in the end.

Mark and Dave headed off and Myself James and Diarmuid lazed about in the blazing sunshine and heavy blustery gusts of wind that blew our boulder mats and gear all over the place. After a while we gathered out gear together and headed to Pokery (6c).

It was a no go and James called coffee time and there was no argument. We walked out meeting Claire and Grainne on the way. Claire had organised a party at the IMC hut to celebrate her birthday and I was glad to see her down bouldering as I knew that after we were finished our coffee and the lads had gone, I would have company at the boulders before heading to the hut.

Got back to the valley after our lunch break and met Kev and Eamon. Walked in with them and met up with the girls again. Had a good days bouldering having refueled over lunch with a good amount of carrot cake for dessert!! Ticked Squamish (6a+) and FINALLY ticked Pokery (6c) which I was delighted about. Really love that line and I'm excited to have it sent.

We worked on Afro Left after that. Midway through the session I went and slept on my boulder pad under the Jiggery Pokery boulder for about an hour. Felt much better after that. Dropped Eamon off and headed to the hut for about 10pm. I had been at the boulders from about midday until 9pm or there abouts. I was shattered! Great night, thanks a mil to Claire and Happy Birthday!!

The party rocked on til the wee hours of the morning but I fell short of the mark finally saying goodnight at about 3am.

Woke up this morning with sore head uimhir a dó! Claire had a full Irish breakfast on the go and the sun was once again blazing!! There was no breeze though and the morning was hazy and I didn't feel like myself at all. The news then came through that Calvin Torrans had been in a climbing accident in the Mournes and had suffered two broken ankles which had everyone in the hut concerned. We were gutted to hear the news and I hope he makes a speedy recovery.

We got to the boulders for about 3.30pm and I think I put up a new line that might go at about a 5 or 5+! It's very short and I'm pretty sure from it's positioning that someone must have tried it before but it's not in the guide I don't think... Kev and I were joined by Paul, Tom, Darragh, Katie, Jonno and Tom.

We headed to Rhythm and Stealth and I had a revelation! I had yet to catch the compression move, but today (despite my double hangover) I held that move and slapped up to the crimp narrowly falling short. I was in utter disbelief that I'd managed it. I felt comfortable on that attempt but failed to repeat catching the move as well in latter efforts.

I'm thinking it'll go in the next session or two and I'm so excited about it. It really is a quality line, and in my opinion, it's one of the most striking and iconic problems in Wicklow. Well done to Darragh for sending it today - the top out is becoming more and more of a concern to me!! This weekend was one filled with wonderful friends, abstract scenarios, good efforts at the boulders and far too much alcohol.

Bouldering's the life for me.

The Evidence

Thanks to Matt for the video!!

Untick!

Never wanting to cheapen a line I have to 'untick' Abdolobotomy as a sit start...

It would seem, through much research that the crimp throw to the lip is in fact the crux move of the entire problem and the fact that I can reach past it is neither here nor there!!

This means I have to have another session on this line... I can't see anything to complain about!!

Helicopter, La Coquille and Abdolobotomy have a date with me around October...

Sounds like fun!! :)

Fontainebleau 2011 Part Deux

Skint as I am at the moment, I'm never the less glad I treated myself to 6 days in lovely Fontainbleau this past week. We stayed in the F1 and while it has to be noted that there were none available when we tried to book, staying in a Gite is the only way to do it.

The f1 was functional and clean but in the middle of what can only be described as a shitty business park and it's a shitty hotel!

The other problem is that dropping €30 ish /day on food/eating out is not cool and though we had some great meals and a good laugh, I'll say it again...

GITE!

So to climbing! We had only one rainy day and as luck would have it, the rain fell on our rest day. The other days were a mixture of too hot and just on the warm side of good conditions. Richie drove and did a stand out job of keeping his cool as we got very lost on the first day or so trying to find the different areas, finally conceding that none of us could figure out the gps, so we bought a map!

Didn't get lost again... much.

In a crazy turn of events as we drove home on the first evening in our BRAND NEW car with 5km on the clock, driving along a straight road, lined with beautiful forest and a few little houses dotted along the way, two horses ran out from nowhere...

With no time to react, Richie put the brakes on as we collided with one of the horses which in turn, knocked the other horse out of harms way... unfortunately the plight of the first horse we had hit saw it's leg get caught beneath the car as it rolled up the bonnet onto the windscreen before rolling back off the car again, leaving everyone in the vehicle in silence as the animal struggled in it's attempts to get back to it's feet...

When the horse finally managed to stand up the damage to it's back leg left us all in no doubt about what had to be done. The upset owners apologised for leaving the gate open, but I think we were all a bit sad to see the vet arriving to put the horse down.

Shaken, we all went to dinner, calmed down and had a nice evening, but the driving troubles didn't end there - on the way home we were randomly pulled over by a squad car and after checking Richie's driving license they simply wished us a good night and we drove away...

Richie said...'I don't want to drive anymore...'

I didn't blame him.

So now really... on to discussing climbing!

The first day was a bit drizzly when we got to Font, we dropped our stuff and headed to Bas Cuvier. Everything was wet... except 'La Marie Rose'. Enough guff... today was the day. It's not a problem that wows me, or something that was on my ticklist, but it's steeped in Font Bouldering history and I was sick of the grief I was getting for not having sent it yet. We all marched up it with little bother. Richie worked out a tall person's sequence that was just perfect for me.

Me topping out on La Marie Rose 6a

It's done. We moved on from Bas Cuvier.

On my trip in January we had gone to 'Trois Pignons West' and had climbed in '95.2' and 'Roche aux Sabots'. This time we hit 'Cul de Chien' and it's a fab spot. We had a half day there on our first day and had great fun on easy problems, finishing up on a super hard roof called - Le Toit du Cul de Chien which was a striking line but had some fairly gnarly pockets and at the risk of ripping my fingers apart I walked away!!

Ian on the roof problem in Cul de Chien

Great first day though -

The following day we headed to Apremont and had an EPIC FAIL trying to find the boulders... had no idea where to go, even though I've been there twice before, I just couldn't remember and despite maps and vast wandering, we finally called it quits and went to Isatis which had been wet earlier in the day but by the time we arrived it was dry.

Eamon up a tree in Apremont

Again we played on lots of problems before finally heading up towards one of my projects for the trip - Abdolobotomy (7a)

Me on La Statique 6a+

Richie flashing 'La Statique' 6a+

Eamon on Abdolobotomy, Session 1.

We worked the stand start, but with a stupid sequence and none of us could top it out... headed home that evening and me being the big nerd that I am, I took out my ipod and loaded up the sequence for the problem on youtube. We huddled around the tiny screen and watched the various techniques - I was psyched to get back to it again with the beta clear in my head!

Saturday came and we pulled up the blinds to reveal glorious sunshine and clear blue skies.

Awesome!

Conditions may have been woeful for bouldering, but you'll excuse me if I enjoyed lazing in the sun for a day. We did try to climb and I started very well sending about 10 or 15 odd problems, but I was greasing off things later on and the more the sun rose up in the sky, so my frustration grew. Finally I gave in to simply sunbathing... which isn't really something I can complain too much about. :)

Topping out my final problem before the day got too hot

Attempting to climb in the blistering heat... unsuccessfully!

Sunday saw the return of the dreaded drizzle, but we had all agreed to take a rest day. Matt and the rest of the gang from the Arch had arrived and while Eamon drove the guys heading home to the airport, myself and Richie headed to Bas Cuvier to meet up with the newbies on their first day.

Matt took us up to an area I've never been before called Cuvier Rempart just a short walk up from Bas Cuvier. I saw him send a problem I instantly fell in love with. I was raging I didn't have my boots with me. The line was beautiful.

Deroxmainie is a slightly overhanging crimpy, throwy, side pully stunner. I couldn't wait to get back. It's a problem that requires technique, strong fingers and calm. Truly a special line. I had to walk away from it that day though, but it was on my mind!!

Trying to remember what we did on Monday, - but it's all a blur up until we hit Abdolobotomy for a second session, which I'm sure was Tuesday... as they say, time flies when you're having fun... we must have been having a blast!

I think Monday may have been the day that we finished up with a session on Beatlejuice (7a+) - I have the opening sequence NAILED DOWN. Matt got too close to sending it, but the final throw eluded him and he walked away.

Matt getting close to sending Beatlejuice 7a+

Richie on Beatlejuice 7a+ (Cuisiniere Sud)

Ah yes... it's coming back to me now... we decided to head to Abdolobotomy again on Monday evening after Beatlejuice. Eager for adventure we decided to cut across the forest as opposed to walking back to the carpark and back up through Isatis...

We got well and truly lost. LOST. We wandered around and around and got more and more lost. We arrived on a slab that was perched on top of the forest with a most astounding view... none of us took a photo. (DAMN!) An hour or so later, with the sun dipping low we arrived at a path and thank goodness for Matt's guidebook... we were only 5 minutes from the carpark.

Phew! Lesson learned - go the way I know!

Tuesday... Abdolobotomy... Beta... Music on... SESSION!

Matt sent it in 2 attempts. Eamon and I struggled but the sequence unlocked itself for me over the course of about an hour. The opening throw was a throw too far for me though, and now as always we arrive at the controversy!!

There's an opening crimp that one throws from to hit a lip. the problem traverses right from that lip. I could reach that lip from sitting on the ground. I've looked up the problem description... there's no mention of the crimp... I enjoyed the sequence of movement so much and moved through it with ease and dare I say it style in parts... though the top out was an unmerciful lock off which was not so elegant!

I'm taking the tick.

Footage is on it's way!

Beautiful problem. That was one of the (if not the) absolute high points of the trip for me. Eamon sent it just after me and the three of us walked away from that boulder having had a really good time. It was pure fun for the hour or so we were there.

Richie topping out La Coquille 6c

The second high point came after we arrived at 'La Coquille' later that day. Matt and Eamon sent stand start easily and Matt sent the sitter after a good few attempts. He was really on form all trip. He headed off to bring Tony to the train and after he left these Swedish girls rocked up and asked me about the sit start. I showed them the opening holds and with no other beta this girl onsighted the sitter. Just inspiring to watch. I've never seen stronger female climbers than this crew.

Swedish Girl onsighting the sitter to La Coquille 7a

I noticed the guys had become a little coy and asked Eamon what the craic was... He said he was reluctant to try any silly sequences in front of such talented gals... I said to him that that's pretty much how I feel all the time in front of guys... though I'm pretty much over looking silly in front of great male climbers, cause it's always a given I will for the first while of any problem!!

Me on La Coquille (never topped it out)

Matt about to top out on the sit start to La Coquille

I have to say it was nice to see the tables turned with the boys being out climbed by the girls. After that I'm psyched to get back training. The strongest of the girls told me she has to train really hard to do so well. Good to hear that, because so often with very talented athletes it comes so naturally that they have little or no idea how they get to where they are.

This girl was under no illusion about the hours she puts in.

Wednesday arrived and it was all or nothing on our last day! I had a job to do, I was psyched out of my brain to send Deroxmainie. We warmed up in Bas Cuvier, all of us drained and with sore bodies. We met this random guy from New Zealand who sent 'Helicopter' (7a) on his second go. He made it look so easy I had to try. I danced my way up to the throw but needed a fresher mind to go for it. The problem is named because if you fall off the throw at the end, you're likely to cartwheel off, spinning like the blades of a Helicopter.

Definitely excited to get back to that one.

Matt at full stretch in Bas Cuvier

On to the project. Matt was eager to send the direct version of Deroxmainie and so headed up to Rempart with myself, Eamon Richie and our new found New Zealand friend Seph. I think Seph took only 1 or 2 attempts to send the 6c version of the line that starts left. He quickly followed that by a send of the direct version (7a). Matt took a few more attempts with his own bespoke sequence having been out reached by the Kiwi. He was chuffed to send it!

Eamon sent Deroxmainie quickly and I was left thinking that it might be out of my reach. We had the camera set up and rolling but after a good few attempts it seemed unlikely that I'd get it together. I'd held the compression move between to side pull crimps but couldn't get my feet sorted. I knew if I caught the side pull and placed my feet it would be game over.

The camera was turned off and we called last go's. Eamon was at hand to call out my sequence to me... I'm like a goldfish when it comes to remembering... I caught the sidepull, placed my feet, threw for the further side pull out right and caught it... YES! I was able to chill from there. I threw for the slopey lip and caught the pocket at the back.

Up and over I went. The beautiful line was mine. Deroxmainie.... tick!

Photos and videos to follow!

I didn't climb for the last hour before we went home and on the journey to the airport Eamon asked me why. I said I was out of energy and he commented that in his opinion, once I have my 'tick of the day' complete, job done, I don't want to come down from that 'high' by potentially failing on something else...

I believe he might be right, because I didn't really climb after we all sent Abdolobotomy the previous day...

Certainly something to think about.

What a trip though... it's the first time I feel like I've climbed hard in Font.

It's the first time I feel like I've reached my goals there.

Proper photos and videos to follow!!