For the first time ever I heard someone say these words after topping out:
'That definitely wasn't a 7b'
I realised I was in good company as Al Sarahan stood at the top of his 7b send and denounced it as a 6c!
ehem! ... I think he's stronger than he knows.
Very impressive stuff.
So yes, the company was good, however I was not good company... I climbed like a donkey all week.
I learned a few things about bouldering though... I learned that it's not all about being the strongest - It's about the moves too. Someone weaker than you can out climb you if they can figure out the moves faster than you can. I was pretty sure I could crank through anything if I was strong enough, but that's just not the case.
I learned that I don't always need a spotter when I boulder. It's about having confidence in the moves. And if it doesn't work out, it's about knowing how to fall and where my feet are.
It also became clear that Font is full of climbs that are graded at 5c/6a that I can't do, but there are 7a's that I can make a bloody good stab at. It's nice to think that with more and more practice, I'll be able to do lots of styles of bouldering, but for the moment there are definitely climbs that suit me, and climbs that don't.
I favour over hanging acrobatic style climbs over delicate slabs at the moment. My footwork needs major attention. I think when I figure my feet out, a whole new aspect of bouldering will open up.
Watching Jack Doyle climb gave me a demonstration of someone who just knows intuitively where to place his feet. Luckily he didn't mind me stealing his beta from time to time, and every now and then I'd send a tricky problem because of it.
Climbing with Naomi, I learned that every bit of rubber on your shoe should be utilised. That girl uses every last bit of shoe she has, and pushes and pulls with her feet in a way that glues her to the rock. So many times during the trip I was introduced to another part of my shoe while climbing with her. My shoes are going to start working a lot harder for me from now on.
Such was my frustration at the lack of quality in my climbing, as well as life just biting me in the ass as I had ignored every aspect of it by burying myself in training for the weeks leading up to the trip, that I didn't take a single photo. I was just too pissed off.
Being in the company of the likes of Neal McQuaid and Al Sarahan as well as Chris Rooney, who between them must have sent a big fat heap of 7a grade (and above) boulder problems, was just awesome.
But my spirits were not only dampened but drowned at how far my head was out of the game.
on a positive note, I did stock up on a bunch of new climbing shoes, and not a moment too soon as I busted a hole in the toes of both my poor Miura Velcros 2 days from the end of the trip...
As for Holy Moly, I didn't get close. Chris Rooney made a famous send and to the best of my knowledge is the only Irishman to send it this October 2010!
Fair Dues! (the co op rocks!)
Finally a word to the wise. Myself, Seán and Kevin were on our way back through Beauvais Airport last night and were told that our stuffed boulder pads would have to be separated and check in as two separate bags.
After 'discussing' the situation for a good half hour we managed to convince a nice airport man to give us a bin liner to enclose the entire stuffed boulder pad, making it 'one bag'
Their argument was that because one end of the boulder pad is 'open', that it isn't secure and the suitcase inside could drop out (pff!)
Anyway.... get your black sacks ready if you're passing through Beauvais - and watch out for a big fat woman called Matild. She doesn't like climbers!!!
:)
As an addition to my post I would like to mention, though it goes without saying, that climbing with Tim Chapman is awesome.
If ever there was someone who brings energy to a group and enthusiasm to a boulder, it's him.
It's a damn shame I only had the pleasure of his company in Font for an afternoon and not the full week.
:)
